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Female ornaments for festive occasions

The Tekke ethnic group, Turkmenia. Late 19th century

Bukau pectoral

Silver, gilt, stamped and engraved, with cornelians.

Height 45 cm, width 24 cm. Inv. No. 4015 III

Received in 1956 from the Art Museum of Turkmenia, Ashkhabad Cuff bracelets

Silver, gilt and engraved, with cornelians.

Height 12.5 cm, diameter 7.5 cm. Inv. No.6929 III

Acquired in 1972 from a private collection.

“Articles of Turkmen jewellery are distinguished by their size and by the strictness of their geometric or plant designs. The decoration is mostly flat, i. e. engraving prevails over chasing, stamping or granulation. Flat or relief studs of dark cherry-coloured or golden cornelian or glass are almost obligatory.

The necklace of the bukau type reproduced here consists of a flat neck-ring and a large plate decorated with gilt ornamentation and flat cornelian inlays. A fringe of rustling pendants made of chains- a typically Turkmen feature found in many ornaments-is suspended from the plate. Ornaments of the Tekke group were usually rather big and heavy, like the cuff bracelets reproduced here. Such twin non-flexible bracelets were worn one on each arm, and were often wide enough to cover it from wrist to elbow. They consist of five tiers of cornelian studs standing out against the richly ornamented gilt background. Their size and mas-siveness are evocative of the vambraces worn by medieval knights.”

Source: The Museum of Oriental Art, Moscow

(via elhieroglyph)